ANTIQUE & VINTAGE CHARMS

Beguiled by Excalibur's gem-encrusted hilt, Sir Bedivere faltered in his sacred duty. In Tennyson's "Idylls of the King," this knight's momentary weakness before the allure of diamonds, topaz, and jacinth echoes our fascination with objects of beauty and history. The sword's precious stones, tempting enough to challenge even the most steadfast vows, serve as a poignant metaphor for the irresistible draw of vintage and antique jewelry.

Like Excalibur's gleaming gems, antique charms captivate us with their intricate craftsmanship and storied past. Each diminutive masterpiece carries within it a fragment of history. From Victorian lockets to Art Deco talismans, these miniature marvels embody the aesthetic sensibilities and cultural zeitgeist of their respective eras. The allure of vintage charms lies not merely in their aesthetic appeal but in their capacity to serve as portals to our collective history. Queen Victoria popularized charm bracelets, wearing them to commemorate significant events in her life. She gave charm bracelets as gifts to her children and friends, sparking a trend among the aristocracy. As these charms evolved over the decades, they began to reflect the changing tastes and societal values of each era. A delicate filigree heart from the Edwardian era might evoke the refined grace of an age where courtships unfolded in the ornate drawing rooms of grand manors, while a modernist abstract form from the 1960s captures the spirit of artistic revolution.

In 1907, inspired by a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband, the famous French poet and playwright Edmond Rostand, best known for his play “Cyrano de Bergerac,” Alphonse Augis crafted a charm that would become a style sensation. The lovely gold charm, engraved with Rosemonde’s line “Plus qu'hier, moins que demain" (More than yesterday, less than tomorrow), cleverly used plus and minus signs adorned with rubies and diamonds.

In the 1920s and 1930s, Cartier began producing their iconic charm bracelets, often featuring precious gemstones and intricate designs. Among Cartier’s revolutionary Art Deco pieces, the house was known for its small but highly stylized platinum charms sparkling with diamonds and artfully placed baguettes and square-cut emeralds, rubies, or sapphires. Charms were sold separately for clients to create their own stories or were custom-made to tell a tale. The most famous Cartier platinum and diamond charm bracelet was the one that Wallis Simpson received, containing secret messages that told the story of the king who abdicated his throne for her.

Many legendary women wore their sentiments on their wrists. Actresses of the silver screen, Gloria Swanson and Joan Crawford, were two of the first of Hollywood’s royalty to appear in films in the 1930s wearing the charm bracelets they owned. This helped propel charms to the height of fashion during the early to mid-20th century. Joan Crawford had charms from all her lovers with inscriptions and dates, even a miniature replica of an Oscar statuette.

In the 1950s, long before she became the Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly epitomized style and sophistication. Her on-screen presence showcased timeless glamour, with the pearl strand around her neck in many films becoming a symbol of her poise.  In Alfred Hitchcock’s “Rear Window” (1954), Kelly's role as Lisa Fremont is a rarity for 1954—a female hero. Strong-willed and captivating, Hitchcock's costume choices, crafted by his longtime collaborator Edith Head, were integral to his narrative strategy. 

This is evident in the scene where Lisa Fremont, a self-declared expert on women, schools James Stewart’s Jeff in the ways of women and their adornments: 

Lisa: “Women don’t keep their jewelry in a purse, getting all twisted and scratched and tangled up.”
Jeff retorts, “Well, do they hide it in their husbands’ clothes?” Lisa responded, “They do not. And they don’t leave it behind either. Why, a woman going anywhere but the hospital would always take makeup, perfume, and jewelry…That’s basic equipment. And you don’t leave it behind in your husband’s drawer in your favorite handbag.”

At the center of this exchange is Kelly's multi-strand pearl bracelet with gold ball elements and large charms, symbolizing her character’s intelligence wrapped in playful charm.  

Elizabeth Taylor wore her own charm bracelet in the film “Giant” (1956). Taylor had worn charm bracelets as a girl and then well into womanhood. One of Elizabeth Taylor’s most important sentimental pieces of jewelry was given to her by her longtime friend, the famed costume designer Edith Head. The two worked together on numerous films, building a closeness that transcended a mere working relationship. Taylor thought of Head as a second mother, and she, in turn, took Taylor under her wing. When Edith passed away, she bequeathed Taylor her ivory, turn-of-the-century Victorian theatre-ticket-charm necklace, the charms which she collected during her lifetime and which she wore every day.

The jewelers of the mid to late 20th century re-imagined charms that had to do with luck and protection. There was also a big push in the 1960s and early 70s to zodiac charms. Crafted by GÜBELIN, a house with roots stretching back to 1854, our zodiac charms from the 1980s combine exquisite artistry with celestial motifs, elegantly linking history with the stars. 

The designs of renowned houses of the day created charm bracelets that bespoke true emotional value and provided a dose of high style and a dash of wit and whimsy. Such houses included David Webb, William Ruser, Paul Flato, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co.  

For the discerning collector, charms offer a unique opportunity to curate a personal narrative. A carefully assembled collection of vintage charms becomes a wearable autobiography. It's a pursuit that combines the thrill of the hunt with the satisfaction of preserving history, all while indulging in the timeless human desire for adornment and self-expression. Antique and Vintage charms remind us that sometimes, the most profound stories can be told in the smallest of spaces—dangling from a bracelet, close to the heart.